Meet The Chef: Behzad Gotla, Head Chef At COYA Mayfair, Mayfair in London / By Anuja Gaur

Emberwood, one of Bath’s most anticipated restaurant openings, is set to ignite the city’s dining scene this May, with open-fire cooking and a meticulously crafted seasonal menu.

Brought to life as part of a multi-million-pound restoration of one of the city’s most iconic addresses, Emberwood takes its name in part from John Wood the Elder, the visionary architect behind much of Georgian Bath’s architectural grandeur. The restaurant will offer a dining experience rooted in local provenance and seasonality, with a dramatic open kitchen and charcoal-fired hearth providing a captivating focal point for guests.

At the heart of the culinary offerings is David Hazell, the executive head chef, bringing his signature ingredient-led style to Emberwood, with a menu that celebrates the rich agricultural bounty of Somerset and the South West of England.

We sat down with the talented chef to find out more about his exciting career, his ambitious plans for Emberwood and why spring is his favourite time of year.

Can you tell us a little bit about yourself, including where you are today, professionally, and what got you here?

My journey into hospitality started when I worked as a kitchen porter for my brother, who was a chef. I was immediately drawn to the energy of the kitchen, the camaraderie among chefs, and the fast-paced environment.

That experience inspired me to pursue a career in cooking. I then had the opportunity to work a season in Tignes, cooking for a 45-person chalet. I loved the creative side of preparing dishes and curating memorable dining experiences for guests. When I returned, I secured a commis chef role at Clifton Lido in Bristol, where I truly honed my skills and developed my craft.

I eventually went on to opening Paco Tapas in 2016 and achieving a Michelin star within eight months, which was a very proud moment.

Launching a new restaurant is always exciting, but what drew me to Emberwood was the strong team ethos and the chance to build something from the ground up.

We’re starting from scratch – cooking over coal, celebrating the South West, and working with some truly outstanding local produce.

For me, it’s about creating a kitchen culture where chefs can thrive. And with access to ingredients like Waverly lamb, world-class dairy, and incredible seafood, the South West is a dream to cook in.

David Hazell’s menus are a celebration of locally-grown and sourced produce including beef from grass-fed, ex dairy cows from Lower Westcombe Farm and Cornish seafood from Wings of St. Mawes

What, or who, inspired you to become a chef? Who has been your biggest influence to get you to where you are today?

Freddie Bird at Clifton Lido had a huge impact on me early in my career. His depth of culinary knowledge is exceptional. He really pushed us to refine our palates and develop an instinctive understanding of how to balance flavour. Freddie also introduced me to cooking over open fire, a technique that’s shaped my approach ever since.

What’s your signature dish?

At Emberwood, I love combining our Cornish fish suppliers’ line-caught fish with Somerset Lardo butter to create a dish that adds a hint of surprise.

I’m also passionate about cooking over fire. Using the best ingredients and working them over coals gives us those deep, smoky flavours that define Emberwood’s cooking.

Even the vegetables for our stocks are charred on the hearth, adding an extra layer of complexity to many of our dishes. Whether it’s achieving the perfect burnt edges on a steak or letting the high heat work its magic on fresh fish, fire is at the heart of what we do.

What are the most important considerations when crafting your menu?

We are fortunate to be based in the South West, home to some of the finest produce in the UK. We work closely with trusted suppliers to ensure we source the best quality ingredients, whether it’s heritage-bred meats, exceptional dairy, or the freshest seafood from Cornwall. Sustainability and provenance are key considerations in every ingredient we bring into the kitchen.

It all starts with the seasons, what is at its peak and when. From there, I think about complementary flavour profiles and, in the case of Emberwood, how those ingredients will work with charcoal and open-fire cooking. Inspiration often comes from my surroundings, past experiences, and the incredible produce available to us.

Do your personal preferences influence the menu at all?

Yes, my goal is always to create dishes that are full of flavour, well-balanced, and memorable. While my personal preferences do play a role, it’s not just about what I like, it’s about what will connect with our guests.

I focus on using the best seasonal ingredients and finding combinations that are both exciting and satisfying. It’s all about creating an experience with food that people will remember.

How would you describe your cooking style?

My cooking ethos revolves around simplicity, seasonality, and bold flavours.

I believe in using high-quality ingredients and enhancing their natural flavours rather than overcomplicating a dish. Cooking over fire is something I am particularly passionate about; it brings a depth of flavour that’s hard to replicate with other methods. At Emberwood, we are embracing the essence of fire-cooked dishes to create something truly special.

Simple cooking over natural flame honours the freshness and quality of local seasonal produce

Do you have a favourite time of year or set of ingredients that you look forward to working with?

For me, the transition from winter to spring is the most exciting time in the kitchen. It is when you see the biggest shift in the menu. After the deep, earthy tones of winter, suddenly there is a burst of vibrancy. Fresh greens, bright herbs, young vegetables. You start to see wild garlic, tender shoots, early peas, all those ingredients that bring a lightness and freshness back to the plate. It is a real turning point in the year, and one we look forward to every time.

What is your favourite ingredient to create with?

I’ve always loved working with cured pork fat. It’s something you’ll often find on the Emberwood menu. There’s real depth and richness to it, and it brings an incredible savoury quality to a dish without overwhelming the other ingredients.

I used to use a Spanish product called Tocino, which is an Ibérico cured pork fat, but more recently I’ve found an amazing replacement from Somerset Charcuterie. Their version is beautifully made, and it’s got that same melt-in-the-mouth quality.

I use it when I’m cooking fish or rolling porchetta. It’s one of those ingredients that surprises people. Just a little bit can completely transform a dish. It’s a flavour bomb, and when used thoughtfully, it adds something special.

What would you be doing if you weren’t a chef?

I’ve always been fascinated by the sea and wanted to train as a marine archaeologist. I love the idea of diving down to explore old pirate wrecks. Getting my SCUBA licence is on the retirement wish list.

What is your favourite dish to cook at home?

It has to be Sunday morning pancakes with the kids. It’s nothing fancy, just simple pancakes, fresh fruit, a bit of a mess in the kitchen, but I get the most joy from it. The kids are smiling, laughing, flipping the pancakes, and getting involved. It’s just good fun and, for me, that’s what food at home should be about.

What is your favourite piece of kitchen equipment?

The hearth, without question. It is at the centre of everything we do at Emberwood. Cooking over fire brings out something special in the ingredients. Whether it is fish, meat, or vegetables, the heat, the smoke, and the char all add depth, texture, and soul to the food.

When you’re not in the kitchen where can you be found?

Out in the woods. I live near a lovely stretch of woodland, and I take every opportunity to get outside with the kids. We’ll head down to the river, run through the trees, forage for wild garlic, just enjoy being out in nature together. It is one of the best ways to spend time, and those moments are really important to me.

What’s your favourite takeaway or comfort food?

Woodfired pizza! Fresh mozzarella, a little bit of garlic, and some cured meat – salami or pepperoni. Simple, but when it is done right, there’s nothing better. It is that mix of crisp base, melting cheese, and rich, smoky flavour that just hits the spot every time.

What do you think is the most over-hyped food trend?

Truffle oil. Truffles can be amazing, fresh white truffle, used properly, can lift a dish, but expensive doesn’t always mean better.

Truffle oil gets overused and can overpower everything else on the plate. The same goes for lobster. It gets all the attention, but for me, crab is far more interesting. It has more flavour and texture.

What differences do you find working with local produce as opposed to non-local produce in terms of what you can create and flavour? 

The biggest difference is the relationship you can build with producers who are closer to home.

It’s much easier to establish trust and really understand how the food is being grown or raised when you can talk directly to the farmer or have it delivered straight from the farm to the kitchen. We work with local suppliers who support UK farmers, and that kind of direct connection makes a huge difference.

Supporting the UK farming industry is super important. If we don’t invest in and rebuild it, there won’t be a UK farming industry in the next 30 years.

Emberwood is a British brasserie located in the heart of Bath and is firing up Bath’s fine dining scene

How do you go about menu planning? What’s the process from picking the ingredients to getting them fresh into the kitchen and into dishes?

For me, everything starts with seasonality. What’s available at the time dictates the direction the menu takes, it’s the foundation.

I always try to get out into the markets, see what’s in season, and talk to the suppliers. It’s one of the best ways to stay connected to the ingredients and get a real feel for what’s fresh and at its best.

From there, I dive into cookbooks, looking for inspiration and interesting flavour combinations. A great little book I often go back to is The Flavour Thesaurus. It’s got this brilliant wheel of flavour pairings that always offers a fresh way of thinking about ingredients.

Then it’s back into the kitchen to test, taste, and refine. I’m not trying to reinvent the wheel, just focus on finding great flavour combinations using the best ingredients we can get our hands on.

How would you describe the food you create at Emberwood to someone who’s never experienced your kind of food?

Dishes that are full of flavour, well-balanced, and memorable.

What’s your favourite flavour combination?

A good red wine and a perfectly cooked steak is hard to beat. But honestly, it really depends on the season. Right now, one of my favourites is a classic rhubarb and custard. Dom, our pastry chef, has created this beautiful take on it for the current menu, and it takes me straight back to being a kid. It’s one of those magical flavour combos that’s simple but powerful. I love it.

What is the USP of your restaurant?

Emberwood showcases a dining experience rooted in local provenance and seasonality. It embraces the essence of fire-cooked dishes to create something truly special.

What do your future plans entail?

The goal is to establish Emberwood as a must-visit restaurant, loved by both locals and hotel guests. We want to create an experience that feels special yet approachable, somewhere people return to.

Factbox

Address: 5 Queen Square, Bath BA1 2HH
Phone: 01225 473351
Website: emberwoodbath.com

All imagery credit: Emberwood/The Francis Hotel