The Lanesborough Hotel Presents: The House Of Ruinart Champagne Dinner / By Christina Alagaratnam

Just around the corner from Hyde Park sits the Lanesborough Hotel, a gorgeous Regency style hotel, which plays host to England and Europe’s finest winemakers.

Proudly hosted by their head sommelier, Jules Coppier, The Lanesborough’s regular dinner series, invites you to cross the threshold into the most beloved wine regions – without having to board a plane or the Eurostar!

Instead, you can settle into their opulent, but snug, dining room, with a glass in hand, enjoying a seasonal menu, crafted by The Lanesborough’s executive chef, Shay Cooper.

I was proud to attend The House of Ruinart’s turn in the spotlight, with Ruinart Champagne Ambassador, Mateuz Kowalczyk as our host. As guests of this dinner, we were treated to a champagne reception, followed by a three-course meal, all paired with four selected champagnes, interwoven with stories and anecdotes of Ruinart’s history.

The Lanesborough’s head sommelier, Jules Coppier hosts the regular dinner series

The oldest champagne house

As a wine taster, one of the many reasons I was so excited to attend this tasting, is because of the champagne’s history. It wasn’t just the history of the house – it was the history of champagne itself!

Founded in 1729, by Nicholas Ruinart, in Reims, this is the oldest established champagne house. Inspired by his Uncle Dom Theirry Ruinart – a Benedictine monk who foresaw the cultural importance of sparkling wine – Nicholas sought to make his family name, an authentic champagne house. Even today, their bottles are loyally inspired by the original 18^th century champagne bottles.

The Ruinart family were originally cloth merchants, gifting bottles of champagne to their clients as a ‘thank you’ for their business. However, their champagne was so successful, they decided to terminate the clothmaking business and launch themselves as winemakers instead.

Nevertheless, their skills acquired in the clothmaking industry, such as precision, texture, quality and of course – customer satisfaction – has sprinkled down the generations, culminating in the champagne which we taste to this very day.

The Lanesborough hosted a champagne reception, followed by a three-course meal, all paired with four selected champagnes

The Ruinart Blanc de Blanc

Paired with:  A selection of beef tartare, smoked salmon, mushroom and chicken parfait canapes.

The champagne reception was presented in a cosy alcove, next to the dining room, with a spectacular view of Hyde Park.

Whilst being serenaded by a harpist, we enjoyed a Ruinart Blanc de Blanc, which is made from one hundred percent Chardonnay. If you’re hosting a dinner party with Ruinart, this champagne is the perfect apertif, with the fine bubbles and refreshing, citrus tone.

For canape pairing, there’s a wide selection to choose from, including beef, salmon, chicken liver and mushroom.

The Ruinart Brut

Paired with: Roast Orkney Scallop, caramelised shallot, Madeira.

For our starter, we enjoyed the Ruinart Brut, which is a Pinot Noir driven blend. The taste was rounded, but with a hint of red fruit.

The texture of the champagne on its own holds notes of toast and pastry – which was richly complemented with our salted homemade bread and creamy butter.

Yet, when paired with the sweetness of the scallop and shallot, the Ruinart Brut’s tone grows much smoother on the tongue. I personally felt that the meal was more enhanced, as the flavour of the Pinot Noir led blend cut through the umami.

Founded in 1729, by Nicholas Ruinart, in Reims, this is the oldest established champagne house

The chalk cellar (Crayères)

We took a pause on our culinary journey to finish sipping our Ruinart Brut and venture down the ancient crayères of Maison Ruinart. 

Carved out by the Gallo-Romans as far back as the fifth century, these gigantic, chalk-walked spaces, were the first wine cellars for the Ruinart family. The cool, dark and still environment provide the perfect natural environment for aging champagne.

Steeped in a thousand-year history, their crowning moment came during World War II. In a German occupied Reims, the family hid their champagne bottles within the walls, then surreptitiously passed them on, refusing to be browbeaten or surrender. These walls are not just cellars. They’re a fortress, protecting the Ruinart family and their legacy, for centuries.

Dom Ruinart 2013

Paired with: Sutton Hoo chicken, asparagus, cheese and onion tartlet, champagne sauce, or wild sea bass, grilled fennel, champagne and caviar sauce

Along came the main course and, with it, the most nuanced pairing of the night, in my opinion. Drinking a 12-year-old champagne, felt like stepping back in time. The Dom Ruinart, is the champagne’s prestige cuvèe, made with one hundred percent Grand Cru Chardonnay. I chose the Sutton Hoo chicken, as I thought the accompanying cheese and onion tartlet would pair well with the Dom Ruinart, and it did!

The Champagne Room at The Lanesborough is a sumptuous setting

Alone, the Dom Ruinart holds notes of puff pastry, ripe wheat and dried stone fruit, with a long finish that lingers like fine silk.

Married to a gentle dish like the Sutton Hoo chicken – an infamous bird, known for its’ delicate texture – the champagne found their flawless counterpart.

Additionally, the shortcrust of the pastry and whipped nutty notes of the cheese and onion brought out the brioche and hazelnut flavours of the champagne.

I’m always amazed at the new essences, which bubble up after every bite! And, of course, the accompanying champagne sauce is also a perfect harmony between the glass and the plate.

I didn’t try the seabass, but I gather the lightness of the fish would also make a loyal counterpart to the Dom Ruinart.

Ruinart Rosè

Paired with: Raspberry and jasmine ‘Eton Mess’ with a natural yoghurt sorbet.

Finally, we were onto dessert and the most romantic pairing of the evening. This is the first and only champagne rosè of the tasting, made with a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The chefs cheekily matched the rose colour in their presentation, with a playful pink blush, sweeping across the plate. The notes of cherry, pomegranate and light red fruit blend with the raspberry and sweetness of the méringue.

Ruinart’s quiet confidence in being the first Champagne House exudes in their performance as hosts

Petit Fours

As a chocolate taster, I always look forward to this sweet treat after dinner. The Lanesborough treated us to their homemade chocolates and vanilla macaroons, presented on a beach of chocolate nibs.

There was no wine pairing for this, as tea and coffee always accompany petit fours. Yet the dessert rosè works as a gentle match, with a delicate sweetness on the finish.

In a nutshell

Ruinart’s quiet confidence in being the first Champagne House exudes in their performance as hosts. Their champagne feels as if they’re crafted with intention, a true love of the craft of sparkling wine and not just a show of dramatic flair.

Collaborating with The Lanesborough Hotel elevated the experience, amongst their glittering chandeliers, rich ambience and attentive service. This tasting event was more immersive, rather than performative and I’m looking forward to seeing what they showcase next.

Factbox

If you’d like to attend a tasting event at the Lanesborough Hotel, you can find more information here: oetkercollection.com

House of Ruinart: ruinart.com