Russell Higham visits the old masters and new contemporaries adding flavour to the tasteful attractions on show at some of Britain’s best art galleries.
Image Credit: Rachel Orphan
Artists have been putting food on canvas for centuries. Andy Warhol had his soup cans, Cézanne did bowls of fruit, whilst for Van Gogh it was the humble potato.
Now that gastronomy has been elevated into an art form of its very own, the finest chefs are literally turning the tables by putting food at the heart of the gallery experience.
Here are some of the top restaurants to be found in London’s finest repositories of art – as well as two just outside the capital – to indulge the senses this autumn and winter.
Locatelli @ National Gallery
Locatelli is the latest masterpiece by two of the world’ s most respected Italian chefs, Giorgio and Plaxy Locatelli
Newly opened this summer in the National Gallery’s Sainsbury Wing just off Trafalgar Square, this light and airy 80-seat restaurant and bar is the latest masterpiece by two of the world’s most respected Italian chefs, Giorgio and Plaxy Locatelli.
Their Michelin-starred Locanda Locatelli closed last Christmas so this is the ideal – perhaps the only – place in town to appreciate some first-class pappardelle at the same time as some priceless works of art.
Speaking at the opening, Giorgio revealed that Caravaggio, whose priceless paintings are on display inside the gallery: “has always been such a huge inspiration for me, and so to cook under the gaze of his work is a dream come true.
His dramatic use of light and shadow resonate strongly within this setting, and we are excited to bring that same boldness and authenticity to our menu.”
The braised veal tortelloni with gremolada and parmesan sauce is just one of the many standout dishes here. I paired mine with a glass of Podere Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (excellent value at just £10) and followed it up with a rich glass of Bicerin, the famous coffee/dessert from the Piedmont region of Italy.
locatelliatnationalgallery.co.uk
The Portrait by Richard Corrigan @ National Portrait Gallery
The Portrait is an elegantly relaxed space with panoramic cityscape views
Just around the corner from the National Gallery, renowned Irish chef Richard Corrigan’s The Portrait serves ‘delights from land and sea’, accompanied by stunning panoramic views – from Trafalgar Square right the way out to The Shard – on the fourth floor of Britain’s National Portrait Gallery.
This elegantly relaxed space, with blonde wood furnishings and abundant plants accentuating the garden rooftop feel, offers ‘a selection of long beloved and sometimes overlooked British and Irish fish and shellfish delicacies, complemented by a diverse range of meats and seasonal game specialities’.
I came for Sunday lunch and started with white onion, spinach and wild garlic soup – almost a meal in itself – followed by the poussin which was fresh, light and served alongside Romaine lettuce infused with parmesan custard. There’s a good range of wines by the glass (starting from £8) but I chose a carafe (375ml) of excellent Riesling for £30.
theportraitrestaurant.com
Tate Modern Restaurant and Bar
Dishes are artfully prepared and presented, with colours that pop on the plate
If you like your food how you like your art, i.e. modern, then you’ve come to the right place. On the sixth floor of one of London’s most iconic and best loved buildings, the Tate Modern Restaurant provides stunning views across the river from its unrivalled location immediately opposite St. Paul’s Cathedral.
The views are equally good inside too: dishes are artfully prepared and presented, as you’d expect from the most visited art gallery in Britain, with colours that pop on the plate, echoing the contemporary works hanging on the walls below.
A fresh and zesty beetroot starter was followed by the (Jackson) pollock with celeriac and cider butter sauce. For dessert, I marvelled at a meringue with strawberries so red they looked as though they’d come straight off a Rothko.
And Neal’s Yard Dairy cheeses are presented in hues of orange and yellow that would have made Picasso proud (although maybe not in his Blue Period).
There’s also a series of events, workshops and lunchtime concerts including a live jazz band paired with Sunday lunch or afternoon tea.
tate.org.uk/visit/tate-modern/restaurant
Design Kitchen @ Design Museum
Designed by Matthew Williamson, the lounge-style space offers relaxed dining in inspired surroundings. Image credit: Jon Day
Though technically a museum, rather than a gallery, this temple to outstanding design boasts a restaurant that is well worthy of inclusion here. The building, which has been adapted from the former home of the Commonwealth Institute, stands on High Street Kensington, overlooking Holland Park at the rear.
The museum seeks to celebrate design as an expressive artform and its new restaurant, on the second floor, looks out across an expansive atrium to many of the exhibits on display. Designed by Matthew Williamson (who is both a fashion and interior designer), the lounge-style space offers relaxed dining in inspired surroundings that stimulate the senses.
The range of all-day brunches (including an excellent Middle Eastern option) are a popular choice but I went for the grilled ChalkStream trout with charred leek, freekeh grains and almond romesco sauce. A range of English sparkling wines from Nyetimber, available by glass or bottle, are the perfect accompaniment.
designmuseum.org/plan-your-visit/eat-drink
All aboard the arts express…
After a five-year hiatus, a direct Thameslink rail service will once again operate between London and Eastbourne on the Sussex coast, starting December 15th. This will put two of the best smaller galleries outside the capital – and their excellent restaurants, within easy reach.
Light @ The Towner, Eastbourne
The lunch menu at Light features authentic ‘smørrebrød’ (Danish open sandwiches) with tempting fillings such as herring and egg, and beetroot and whipped feta
Close to Eastbourne’s smart seafront, where it has stood for over a century, The Towner is often described as one of the most important art galleries in the southeast region.
It’s worth making the trip down here just for the collection of works by its most celebrated local artist, Eric Ravilious.
However, Light, its new Scandinavian-inspired restaurant on the top floor (with outside terrace) offers an equally compelling reason to visit.
This stylishly designed and lit (hence the name) 60-cover eatery emanates a cinematic vibe, as befits the inclusion of a cinema in the arts complex below.
For lunch, head chef Adam Creasy (previously of The Star in Alfriston) creates authentic ‘smørrebrød’ (Danish open sandwiches) with tempting fillings such as herring and egg, and beetroot and whipped feta.
Highlights on the seasonal dinner menu include a divinely light (again, hence the name) starter of tempura asparagus with shaved egg yolk, pea custard and beer pickled shallot, plus my personal favourite main course: leg and confit leg of rabbit with star anise carrots and parmesan foam.
townereastbourne.org.uk/eat
Coquina @ Hastings Contemporary
Coquina offers an Iberian-inspired menu against a backdrop of sea views
Just a little further along the coast, and located directly on the seafront itself is the Hastings Contemporary. Previously named the Jerwood Gallery, it shows an eclectic range of works by both emerging and established British artists.
Coquina, which operates as both a café and restaurant during the day and evening, is situated on the gallery’s first floor, with plenty of tables to choose from on a large sun terrace overlooking the fishing beach below.
The Iberian-inspired menu from head chef Wil Hopson (ex of Carousel and Moro in London) challenges existing preconceptions about Portuguese and Spanish cuisine. Lunch options include a moreish (as well as Moorish) gazpacho with nectarine, and a tortilla that, according to my server, Wil spent ten years perfecting the recipe for.
The tapas-style evening menu doesn’t disappoint either. Standouts on my visit included the apricot, yellow bean and cucumber salad with ricotta, as well as pork belly with peach and sherry sauce.
For one of life’s simplest yet sweetest pleasures, order the sardines al ajillo on tomato bread; it will have you believing you can almost see Lisbon shimmering along the shore – just don’t act too disappointed when you realise it’s actually St. Leonards!
