Meet The Chef: Eng Soon Yeo, Head Chef At Yú Gé At Park Hyatt London River Thames, Nine Elms in London / By Shekha Vyas

A crown jewel in London’s riverside restaurant offering, Yú Gé is quietly establishing itself as one of the city’s most refined new destinations for Cantonese dining.

Here, amidst the polished interiors and subtle flourishes of the Park Hyatt London River Thames, the food speaks with quiet confidence; thoughtful, perfectly balanced dishes that place ingredient integrity front and centre.

At the helm is chef Eng Soon Yeo, a Singaporean culinary talent whose journey from the bustling hawker stalls of his hometown to London’s high-end dining scene spans decades of dedication, discipline and deep respect for his craft.

A master of Cantonese cuisine, chef Soon made his name in some of the capital’s most prestigious kitchens, including the opulent Mimi Mei Fair and the Michelin-starred Hakkasan Hanway. At both, he earned a reputation for combining technical excellence with a gentle creativity that never strays far from tradition.

Now, with Yú Gé, chef Soon is bringing something even more personal to the table. “Cantonese cuisine is an art of precision and restraint,” he says.

“At Yú Gé, our mission is to honour these traditions while allowing the natural flavours of our premium ingredients to take centre stage.” His menu is a showcase of this philosophy: from the lacquered, paper-thin crisp of his signature Peking duck to the delicately wrapped har gow, each dish is an ode to simplicity, balance, and storytelling through food.

Chef Soon’s approach is also firmly grounded in ethics and seasonality. And, despite his reverence for tradition, chef Soon is no purist.

His extensive travels across Southeast Asia, Europe and North America have imbued his cooking with a quiet versatility, one that bridges old-world techniques with contemporary influences and global ingredients. The result is food that feels both rooted and resonant: elegant yet accessible, nostalgic yet quietly new.

We sat down with the thoughtful chef to talk about his early days in Singapore’s kitchens, the emotional resonance behind every dish, and why the best Cantonese cooking will always begin with listening – to the seasons, to the ingredients, and to the stories they have to tell.

Yú Gé’s Cantonese dishes are presented by keeping the authenticity of the flavours while also embracing the adaptability and fusion that are central to Singaporean food culture

Your decision to focus on Cantonese cuisine blends traditional Cantonese cooking with contemporary elegance. How do you balance these two elements in the dishes you create? 

To achieve that balance, I focus on maintaining the core essence of Cantonese cuisine, which is rooted in fresh, high-quality ingredients and techniques that highlight natural tastes. But, also, I introduce modern touches through plating, innovative cooking methods, or local ingredients.

Your culinary expertise comes from a rich heritage in Singapore. How has your cultural background influenced the way you present Cantonese dishes at Yú Gé?

Growing up in Singapore I’ve always been surrounded by diverse culinary influences. Although I was mainly working in traditional Cantonese restaurants, it was the Singaporean multicultural environment that shaped my approach to food, making me more open to blending traditional flavours with influences from other cuisines.

Therefore, in Yú Gé I am presenting Cantonese dishes by keeping the authenticity of the flavours while also embracing the adaptability and fusion that are central to Singaporean food culture.

What is your favourite comfort food dish? 

My favourite comfort dish has to be Hainanese chicken rice. It has a tender poached chicken, fragrant rice cooked in chicken fat, and a variety of dipping sauces such as ginger, chili, and dark soy sauce. It’s a simple yet incredibly satisfying dish.

What makes it so comforting is the balance of flavours and the nostalgic connection it has to so many people in Singapore, including myself. The simplicity of the ingredients, combined with the layers of flavour, makes it such a comforting and beloved dish.

Separately, if you could share a dish with diners that reflects both your heritage and your personal journey as a chef, which one would it be and why?

If I could share a dish with diners that reflects both my heritage and my personal journey as a chef, it would be char siu (barbecue pork).

This dish beautifully combines the traditional flavours of Cantonese cuisine with a personal twist that represents my evolution as a chef. Char Siu has always been a symbol of Cantonese cuisine, with its rich, smoky sweetness and tender texture.

Growing up in Singapore, I’ve been exposed to various culinary influences, and over the years, I’ve experimented with different marinades, cooking methods, and even added a touch of local ingredients, but here in Yú Gé the secret ingredient is the pork that we use, the Spanish Iberico collar.

The Peking duck is one of the signature dishes at Yú Gé. Can you take us through the meticulous preparation process that makes this dish a must-order?

The Peking duck at Yú Gé is truly loved by our guests, and the preparation process ensures a perfect balance of crispy skin and tender meat.

So, firstly, one of the main factors is selecting the duck. We are currently using Irish ducks from Silver Hill Valley. They are premium, high-quality ducks, typically chosen for their size and skin-to-meat ratio. Then, the next important step is the drying and the seasoning of the duck.

They have to be carefully cleaned and then marinated on the inside of their carcass with our secret five spice blend and then nicely closed up.

The process then follows up with the air-drying for a specific amount of time to allow the skin to firm up. That process takes up to two days, and that is the reason that we require the order in advance of 24 hours. The air-drying process is a critical step to achieve that iconic crispy skin. We finish the duck process with the final step, which is the roasting.

The duck is roasted in a traditional oval-shaped oven, which allows the duck to cook evenly and yet, get this beautiful golden-brown colour. We roast it at a high temperature to achieve a crispy skin while keeping the meat moist and tender.

We serve the duck with thin, delicate pancakes, a fresh assortment of vegetables like cucumber and leek, and a sweet hoisin sauce to balance the savoury richness of the duck.

It’s a must-order at Yú Gé because it’s a dish that showcases both our dedication to craftsmanship and our commitment to delivering a unique dining experience.

Growing up in Singapore’s multicultural environment shaped Eng Soon Yeo’s thoughtful approach to food

Dim sum is often an integral part of Cantonese cuisine. How do you approach crafting your dim sum selection, and what makes your creations unique?

At Yú Gé, we approach our dim sum with a balance of respect for its roots and a commitment to innovation.

We start by focusing on the essential techniques and ingredients that have made dim sum a beloved part of Cantonese culture like the delicate folding of dumplings, the texture of the dough, or the balance of fillings. We offer a mix of traditional dim sum and more experimental creations that surprise and delight.

The goal is to create a selection that is both comforting and exciting, with something for everyone, whether they’re seeking familiar flavours or something more adventurous.

Fresh ingredients play a key role in your philosophy. Can you share more about the sourcing process and how you ensure the highest quality ingredients for your menu?

Fresh ingredients are absolutely central to our philosophy at Yú Gé. Cantonese cuisine is all about the high-quality ingredients, and that’s why sourcing is such an integral part of our approach.

We work closely with trusted, local suppliers who share our commitment to quality. This allows us to source the best produce, seafood, meats, and herbs available. Also, we try to focus on sourcing seasonal ingredients that are at their peak flavour.

But, of course, most important are some of our certain speciality ingredients that are crucial to Cantonese cuisine, or unique spices, that we import directly from trusted sources from Asia.

How does the design of Yú Gé’s interior complement the dining experience, and what atmosphere were you aiming to create for your guests?

The interior design of Yú Gé combines modern elegance with subtle nods to Cantonese heritage. We’ve integrated luxurious touches such as wood accents and polished metals, to create a sense of refinement.

Our layout is designed to encourage conversation and a shared dining experience with a private dining room for larger groups, as well as intimate settings for couples, making it adaptable for different occasions.

We wanted to create an environment where guests could truly focus on the experience of eating, where the ambience doesn’t overwhelm, but instead enhances the enjoyment of the meal.

Can you describe your private dining spaces? What makes these rooms special, and how do they contribute to creating a memorable experience?

Each space has been thoughtfully crafted to provide privacy and comfort, ensuring that guests can fully enjoy their meal without distractions.

Their designs reflect both modern Cantonese aesthetics and classic touches, such as rich wood panelling and custom-made art pieces. I believe that this design creates an environment that feels both exclusive and warm, perfect for those seeking a special, memorable experience. So, the combination of exceptional food, privacy, and attentive service makes it a space where guests can create lasting memories.

From artfully crafted cocktails to the bespoke tea pairings, what role do the drinks play in elevating the dining experience at Yú Gé? Are there any particular pairings or ingredients that are a personal favourite of yours?

To begin with, tea is one of our main drinks that our guest love in Yú Gé. Tea has a long tradition in Cantonese cuisine, and at Yú Gé, we take tea pairings very seriously.

We carefully choose a variety of premium teas like delicate green teas and oolongs to richer Pu-erh teas, to pair with different courses.

The idea is that the tea should not only refresh the palate, but also enhance the aromas and flavours of the food. And then, of course, we have a variety of Chinese wines, which can offer bold, fruit-forward flavours with a touch of spice.

They are excellent in pairing with richer meats like Peking duck or char siu.

The essence of the menu honours the tradition of Cantonese cuisine with classics being refined with contemporary twists and modern techniques

You’ve spent many years perfecting Cantonese cuisine. What changes have you seen in the way Cantonese food is received globally, particularly in London?

Historically, Cantonese food was largely perceived through the lens of takeaways or casual dining experiences. However, as food culture has evolved, especially in cosmopolitan cities like London, there has been a growing appreciation for the depth, refinement, and complexity of Cantonese cooking.

I have been in London for the past 12 years and I have seen that most of the restaurants are trying to push and elevate their cuisine and present it as more refined, sophisticated.

The most important thing is to keep your identity as a traditional Cantonese restaurant and sometimes when restaurants are trying to be more modern and mainstream in their menu, they are losing this identity. That is what we are trying to do to in Yú Gé, to keep the tradition alive.

What are some of the most rewarding aspects of being part of the team at Yú Gé, especially in this luxury environment at Park Hyatt London River Thames?

The Park Hyatt brand carries with it a reputation for luxury, refinement, and exceptional service. Being part of such a renowned hotel allows us to be held to the highest standards in hospitality.

We also have an amazing, strong yet professional team throughout our hotel, which give us the chance to work as a team and make our working environment sustainable.

As a part of the Yú Gé team at Park Hyatt London River Thames there is an opportunity to work in a dynamic, high-energy environment where excellence is always the goal. It’s a privilege to be part of such a prestigious team and to contribute to making every guest’s experience truly special.

Looking ahead, how do you envision the future of Yú Gé, and what direction do you see for the restaurant in terms of both menu evolution and dining experience?

While innovation is key, the essence of our menu will always honour the tradition of Cantonese cuisine. However, we will keep refining our classics, like dim sum and roast meats, with contemporary twists and modern techniques.

Our focus on elevating Cantonese cuisine in a refined and luxurious environment will remain central, but we will keep pushing boundaries to ensure that our dining experience is both innovative and immersive.

What do you hope guests will experience when dining at Yú Gé? Is there a particular emotion or feeling you want them to walk away with?

When dining at Yú Gé, I hope our guests experience more than just a meal. I want them to walk away with a deep sense of satisfaction, connection, and wonder.

Every aspect of the experience, from the flavours on their plate to the ambience of the restaurant, is carefully crafted to evoke certain emotions that elevate the dining journey.

Our guests must feel connected to the dishes not only through the flavours, but also through the stories and traditions that shape them.

Ultimately, I want guests to walk away with a feeling of satisfaction and joy, a sense that they’ve not only enjoyed an incredible meal, but that they’ve also been part of something memorable, meaningful, and unique.

Factbox

Address: 7 Nine Elms Ln, Nine Elms, London SW8 5PH
Phone: 020 3503 1234
Website: hyattrestaurants.com